TO VUKOVAR ON 2 WHEELS

Boy, oh boy, what a ride this was! It all started with a wonderful idea and continued with a semi-bumpy execution of said idea. The combination led to an extraordinary adventure to write home about! Jump on the saddle of your rental bike and join me on a ride through Eastern Croatia: from Osijek to Vukovar.

GEARING UP AND SETTING OUT

It was on the third day of my stay in beautiful Osijek, my belly full and the sun hanging high up in the sky. A perfect day to visit a place that is high up on the sightseeing list of many, due to its historical significance: Vukovar.

But simply going there by bus or train on a day like this was simply out of the question – after all, I wanted to have an active holiday and see more than just the 'hot spots' everybody sets out for. I wanted to breathe the air of the Croatian countryside and see all the little villages that dot the road leading to Vukovar, which, according to my map, was about 3 hours away. Since Slavonia isn't exactly well known for its hills, the bike ride promised to be lengthy but all in all pretty easy.

WHAT HAPPENED IN VUKOVAR?

Once a prosperous Baroque town and home to a multitude of cultures and people, Vukovar became the stage for a horrible siege and massacre between August and November 1991. The conflict had already been brewing since May the same year, and was escalated by way of a full-scale attack against the Croatian-held territory in Eastern Slavonia – and with that also Vukovar. You can find out more about the Homeland War at the Memorial Center in Vukovar.

BACK ON THE ROAD

Where was I? Ah, yes, I was walking down the street and through Sakuntala Park towards where I had found a bike rental place – a charming B&B that is now definitely on my list for my next stay. Grabbing a bicycle from the storage, the lovely lady working for the B&B inquired where I was off to.

"Vukovar!" I said enthusiastically, which was met with a blank stare and a "Kudos" from the lady in white. Due to my planning – or lack thereof – all they had was a men's bike whose saddle was just a tad bit too high. "No matter," I thought, and set out.

The bicycle paths in Osijek are well marked and led me out of the city, right into the middle of the markets at town's end. The hustle and bustle and the smell of coffee tinging the air had me take my first break prematurely. No regrets there! There still is nothing better than sipping a coffee and watching people be people. Talking, laughing and haggling over vegetables.

With renewed energy, I swung my leg over the saddle once more and rode ... and rode ... and ... rode ... A street that wasn't exactly a bicycle path anymore, but still had me cycle on a separate path from the cars passing by. Tiny villages, neatly arranged houses, with a little ditch secluding them from the main street, and people sitting in the local café become my new sight. In between, I ride long patches of a main street that fortunately is not busy.

The only hill I encounter is located in Bjielo Brdo (White Hill), popping up just after passing the orchard that stretches along the river. My path then leads into Aljmaš, a tiny village that is close to the meeting point of the two rivers Danube and Drava.

BETWEEN COUNTRIES

Following the river bend with lots of lush greenery surrounding the area, I make my way on to Erdut, which provides me with the ideal spot for a lunch break. A girl's gotta eat, especially when she's cycling! Also, there's a castle (Dvorac na Brdu/Castle on the Hill), in case you prefer your lunch to be a bit more ... elevated. And let's not forget about the Dvorac (Castle) Adamović with an adjacent park. A lot of sights in this little town, which makes it a great little stop to give your legs a break from all the treading.

Erdut is a cute little village with a park right next to the river, where a few white, withered benches invite me to sit and stare ... over to Serbia. Solemnly separated by the river from the other country, I glance over to the lush green that creeps around the sandy river beds on the other side. The thought that I could simply change countries by simply riding a tiny boat is fascinating.

I bask in that thought and the sun for a while, before I decide to go on my merry way. One village bleeds into the next, separated by a somewhat weird bicycle path that, I am convinced, was just called that because it sounds good.

The road is bumpy, there is no designated bike path for a while, and before crossing into Dalj, I have to pretend to be a car that joins the main street at a crossing somewhere in the nowhere. From here on out, however, it's smooth sailing and the surroundings alternate between local flora and majestic farm houses.

After Borovo, the cycling path actually keeps what it promises. Shortly after, I roll downhill and into Vukovar, past impressive street art and shortly after the Gradski Muzej (Town Museum), which is surrounded by blossoming flowers.

VIEWS FOR DAYS!

First off: I need a coffee! Preferably by the river, where a cute little café refreshes tired wanderers on bicycles with iced lattes and really contribute to that holiday feeling with their cozy seating and Croatian Folk music playing in the background.

ROLLING BACK INTO TOWN

I can't help but breathe a sigh of relief as I pass the sign that announces the city border of Osijek. I made it. This torture will end soon. Rest assured, there was a lot of cursing involved on this trip that wasn't supposed to stretch out that long.

I merge onto the bicycle path of the city of Osijek that leads me past hip bars as well as some local cafés, and eventually leads me to the fortress quarter where I hand over my bike. The evening sun casts its golden light onto the run down structures surrounding me, and I smile into the camera – drenched in sweat, absolutely exhausted and with what feels like a giant blue and black spot on my bum. But dang, it was worth it!

THE TURNING POINT

Everything seems fine, as I set out to get back to Osijek. My route is planned, I stacked up on water and my belly is full and happy. I follow the bicycle trail and am led to an unexpected green oasis – Park Adica, my map tells me. Taking a bit of a breather and appreciating the teepee-like houses made from straw, I must part with the green hiding spot after a while in order to find my way back.

Please note: If you visit Park Adica, show mother nature respect by dismounting your bike. Cycling is not permitted in this area.

Would I do it again? Absolutely! Had I planned better and gotten a bike that fit me (or brought my e-bike) I am sure I would have had no problems with finding my way back. I must admit, I didn't plan my way back properly, which led to a semi-happy accident in me seeing more of Slavonia than I had bargained for – in all the good ways. It was mainly the discomfort that had me lose my mind at the end there – luckily the thought of a hearty Slavonian dinner (and the Radler) helped me push through even the hardest hour. Care to cycle to Vukovar from Osijek as well? You can find my itinerary (the one I planned after my return) below!

Please be aware that most of this official bicycle path follows the main road. Stay safe and know your limits!

DIRECTIONS

Starting point: Muzej Slavonie, Osijek
Ending point: Vukovar/Muzej Slavonie, Osijek

Route: Osijek - Nemetin - Aljmas - Erdut - Dalj - Borovo - Vukovar - Trpnja - Celije - Tenja - Osijek

Up, up, up I go, to the water tower and after a short but steep incline, I find myself on the plateau, overlooking Vukovar to the one and parts of Serbia on the opposite side of the river. It feels eerie to stand up here, considering what has happened to this town. I decide not to climb the water tower – it simply doesn't feel right to me – and I even feel like an intruder for simply coming up here. Enough, I decide, and after a stroll past the Church of St. Philip and St. Jacob, I descend and roll back into town.

Although I am extremely interested in history, somehow the topic of the Homeland War is a bit too heavy for me today, and so, I decide to skip going to the Memorial Center and City museum. I do, however, pass by the beautiful Castle Eltz, which houses the the museum of Vukovar.

With all the exploring I did, I lost track of time. Time to head back if I want to make it before the sun sets – which, considering the path, I definitely want to.

Obviously, I want to check out one of most the iconic places – like the Vukovarski Vodotoranj (water tower). Walking my bike through the town center – which is absolutely charming! – and then slightly uphill along houses with significant damage and riddled with bullet holes, I also encounter more powerful wall art that needs no further explanation.

As the houses get scarcer and civilization disappears gradually, it is a cycling path – that I was so happy to have found – that misleads me. Before I know it, I find myself in a village that consists of 10 houses, with nothing more around than a corn field. "Weird," I think. This is definitely not the way I've come. A look at my map confirms my fear. I've taken the wrong way and am now on an unexpected bike tour through the very inland of the Slavonian hinterlands.

There's a path that leads through the aforementioned cornfield, but it is the run-down farm house (and the few unlucky encounters with horror movies in my life), paired with the absolute stillness and lack of an actual path that freaks me out and has me stopping. It's too late to turn back, but I am also too scared to follow this path that might not be one, and so I decide to simply cycle to the next village on my map along the main street: Bobota.

Bobota would turn out to be my saving grace. It is hot and the saddle is by now really messing with my behind. I find a café with a lovely porch and hanging seats, where I get to enjoy an ice cold Radler from dark beer that replenishes my sugar reserves and will help me push through what's to come: A long, long stretch passing by sunflower fields, barking dogs and families that look at me confusedly as to what leads me into their midst, as I make my way from Celije to Tenja. It is here, where I find another refuge to refill my sugar levels that also makes me forget that I basically can't sit and cycle anymore – even with the improvised cushion over my saddle that is my towel.

IN SHORT

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THIS TRIP

• You'll get to experience all the little villages in-between, and the people that live in them

• Beautiful sights on the way, such as Dvorac na Brdu, the riverside in Erdut as well as Park Adica

• Many historical sites and museums in Vukovar and on the way there

• Relatively straight road to Vukovar with only little elevation (except for Bjielo Brdo)

• Quaint towns with riverside cafés

• Craft beer brewery 'Vukovar'

• 4-5 hours long loop from and back to Osijek

• Great day trip for active travel: You get a workout and can do some sightseeing!