OSIJEK – THE PEARL OF THE EAST

Ready to venture outside the city's border some more?

Boy, oh, boy. I have not forgotten my day trip to Vukovar, and neither do I want to keep it a secret. The thing is: What was supposed to be a pretty easy cycling trip turned into an adventure of a lifetime. So much, that I concluded it deserves it's very own article - the trip and the town, that is.

It all started with a great plan, a route on my cycling app and a beautiful sunny day made for exploring.

Wanna know how it all ended? Follow me a bit further East!

As I board the bus that is bound to bring me back home, I glance over my shoulder one last time and think of the bench by the river that says: "Hvala ti, Osjece" (Thank you, Osijek) - and with that gratefulness in my heart, I am ready to return where I came from, knowing that it won't be long until I'll explore this Eastern pearl some more!

EXPLORING MAKES HUNGRY!

Alright, let's get down to the real stuff. Slavonia is widely known for its fantastic meat products. Vegetarians and vegans do not fear, they are also known for having extremely fruitful soil that produces wonderful vegetables and fruit!

Every good explorer knows: Getting to know a country, town or village makes hungry, and one should always try to acquaint themselves with the local cuisine. If nothing else, be sure to make a stop at one of the many wonderful restaurants Osijek has to offer - and gorge yourself on some wonderfully balanced wine from one of their wineries!

If you are trying to go very local with your dishes, try Fis Paprikas or Cobanac. Since Osijek is very close to Hungary, connected through the Baranya region, you might find that the dishes here are similar to Southern Hungarian fare.

Of course, you cannot – I repeat, cannot - miss out on the Slavonska pizza! All of these heavenly dishes are best enjoyed in a quiet courtyard or outside terraces, my preferred one being the one from 'Rustika', just around the corner of the cathedral. Their food is amazing, their wine probably even better and their staff super friendly.

ON THE MOSQUITOES

No matter what region of Croatia someone is from, if you tell them you are going to Osijek, everybody will wish you good luck on fighting off the mosquitoes. As someone who is a prominent victim for them, you can imagine that I was expecting the worst. Luckily, the Kopacki Rit ranger came to my rescue with the following information:

Mosquitoes are usually only terrifying and plaguing the public in spring and autumn months, since there needs to be sufficient water in the river and a cool enough breeze for them to thrive. I know, I know, it's off season then - but maybe that's a good enough reason to give Osijek a chance in summer.

Osijek holds a very dear place in my heart. Why, you ask? Well ... Where to start? The people, the food, the scenery! Just about everything about my trip to Osijek was magical, from the red brick cathedral in the heart of the city, to the markets at town's end and the vast lands that lie beyond its borders – where Kopacki Rit and Vukovar beg you to come closer. Ready for a trip to the East of Croatia? Right this way!

I arrive after a unexpectedly scenic bus ride from Zagreb at the very eastbound tip of Croatia: Osijek. It's a beautiful day to be out here – even (or especially?) in off season, where the streets are empty and only here and there a few people can be seen sipping their coffee in the shade. First box to tick: checking into my hostel, which not only sits in the heart of the town, but also is surprisingly nice - or maybe, I just haven't seen that sort of comfort in a few years of hosteling, who knows!

After leaving my bag, exploring can begin, and as always, I just meander through the little streets and narrow alleys that Osijek offers, past the magnificent Peter and Paul cathedral towering over the town's square. Built in 1898, this Neo-Gothic structure is bound to suck you into its ban at first glance. I just so happen to catch a wedding ceremony concluding - a thing that, as I am told, often occurs out here.

FUN (?) FACT

Before the Neo-Gothic pearl that towers on town square, there used to be a baroque Church which was demolished to make space for the red brick structure.

But swimming is not the only reason to follow the broad pathway that stretches along the river, and has been divided into three different trails for cyclists, joggers and pedestrians; a short walk along the river brings a visitor to the 'Tvrđa' (castle) grounds. Opening up before my eyes is a green and lush park with hundreds of small paths that will lead you to your destination.

At the time of my visit, and because it is off season, the grounds are being renovated and so the Museum of Slavonia cannot be visited - one more reason to go back! - however, the walk through the old town, with its rough around the edges houses and cute little cafe bars is worth the walk. This is also where I find a beautiful Bed and Breakfast that will be my go to place for my next stay - and also where I would rent my bicycle for my crazy trip to Vukovar (more on that here!).

I decide to walk around the grounds and approach the Bastion through the Watergate (Vodena Vrata), which in themselves are worth the short walk to the Tvrda kvart (Fortress quarter)

If one fancies a nice after walk drink, the pedestrian bridge - which is also one of the popular sights - leads to the Copacabana, so stretch your legs out and enjoy a refreshing drinks among the locals! Or ... if you're into shells and bones, make sure to visit the Shell Museum and Water World right around the corner of the Bastion.

Further I go, crossing the square and following the main street that surpasses cafes with generous outside seating in the early summer sun. It's peaceful here, I must admit, and nothing like the annual hustle and bustle along the coast of Croatia. I walk through the blossoming Sakuntala Park leading to the statue of Queen Shakuntale, a beautiful statue that tells the tale of a abandoned daughter of a hermit and a fairy becoming a queen, before I make a sharp left, surpassing Lumiere Wine Bar, towards the river.

Slavonia might not offer the coastal experience everyone dreams of when hearing the magic words 'Summer in Croatia', but I might just like this rural yet modern way of life even better for my summer vacation. The Drava river flowing to my left also ticks the water body box on many a travelers list of things an ideal vacation town needs. Yes, you can swim in the Drava - which the 'Copacabana' towards the bridge a few hundred meters underlines. It's a place of flowing beer, Croatian music and locals enjoying the midsummer sun.