A GODDESS' HAVEN: MEDVEJA & UČKA NATURE PARK

IN SHORT

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THIS HIKE

• One-day adventure from Rijeka

• Beautiful views

• Biodiverse flora & fauna

• From the seaside to the top and back in one day

• Possibility to cool down after return

• Reachable by bus

Učka is a vast Nature Park in the west of Croatia. Perfect for a day trip from Rijeka, right?! Yes, if you do have a car. If you're going by bus, that sort of changes the ambitious idea. Not to worry, though! As we've learned on previous adventures, it's not so much about reaching every peak and every sight in a park, but getting a taste that will want to make you come back for more. This is one of those times where I massively underestimated how vast a nature park actually can be - but was rewarded with a wonderful hike and an unexpected find at the end of a long summer day.

THE HARD PART: FINDING THE TRAIL HEAD

It's a beautiful sunny day in June when I set out to my nature adventure after spending the night over the roofs or Rijeka. Mounting a local bus, I ask the driver if he really is going to the tiny village Medveja, where I intend to start my hike that should lead me up to the peak of Učka National Park, Vojak.

"Why yes, of course, I will. I just needed to know that I have to stop there and I will let you off there.

Content and hopeful, I sit down in the full bus that is headed along the seashore towards Istria. A mere 30 minutes later, my map tells me that my destination is approaching - and fast!

Doubt is starting to replace the excitement about today's hike, as the tree dotted coastline rushes by. I decide to ask the girl sitting next to me if we are, in fact, approaching Medveja and if she thinks this guy will actually stop. She nods and reassures me that they will stop if I told them I would have to get off.

The blue dot keeps on traveling further, approaching Medveja with every second that goes by, until ... it passes the village.

Scrambling up from my seat, I run to the front to ask my driver why he didn't stop and whether that wasn't Medveja that we just passed. He looks at me unrecognizably, as if we hadn't chatted about stopping in Medveja a mere half hour ago, and in fact, his look suggests he has never even seen my face before. With a grumble, he stomps down on the break, making the bus rumble in vengeance.

"This is your stop then," he says, and points to the side of the main street. Fine by me, I think, and hop out of the bus which a second later spurs and rushes up the hill, never to be seen again.

Well then, luckily I am flexible when it comes to reaching my trail heads, and so I walk down the hill, along the street, that leads me back down into Medveja. A mere 10 minutes later I stand in the center of the tiny town, gazing up to the towering rock formations of Učka to my left and the seashore to my right.

Učka Nature Park sprawls over the Istria and Primorje-Gorski Kotar counties in the east of Croatia and is home to Mount Učka as well as the Ćićarija mountain range and acts as a sort of connector between Istria and the continental part of Croatia.

Because of its position between Istria and continental Croatia, Učka was proclaimed a significant nature park due to its rock formations and the lush forests that surround the two highest peaks, Vojak (1'401 m) and Veli Planik (1'272 m). The region has its own kind of climate, providing the ideal base for the overwhelmingly green forest areas to grow and thrive. This also creates habitats for many endemic, threatened and protected plant and animal species, such as marsh fritillary or stag beetle, water shrews and snow voles.

But it is not only the small inhabitants that will take you in its ban. Učka is also home to the peregrine falcon, the common kestrel, the eagle owl, the golden eagle and different bat species that like to huddle up in the cracks of the rocks towering over the area.

FROM THE SHORE TO THE TOP IN 2 HOURS?

Phew! Okay, made it to the trailhead, for which I follow a tiny, trotted-through path that passes the campsite of Medveja. Accompanied by Peacock and Brimstone butterflies in their best frock, I meander along the path, surpassing a handful of cute little wooden cottages - so-called 'vikendicas' - before I follow a short steep bit of the trail that is bound to get me to Lovranska Draga - a magical viewpoint that captures both the rock formations and the the seashore lying to Medveja's feet.

My inital plan is to climb all the way up to the top, Vojak, which would take me about 3.5 hours, but I quickly have to admit that I will not have enough time if I want to catch the bus back to Rijeka the same day - where my bed for the night is. With a bit of a heavy heart, but still excited for what's to come, I trudge on and let the slight feelings of remorse be resolved by the absolute beauty this Eden has to offer. Bright shiny green grass, vineyards and lizards surround me, and the steep climb up, up, up goes by like nothing.

I come across a tiny cottage of sorts made from stone, Puli malina, as it turns out - a shelter for hikers and wanderers like me. It is here, with a stunning view of the rock formations of Vojak and the vineyard underneath, that I stop for a lunch break and gorge myself on the sunlit pastures and slight breeze flowing through.

After refueling my energy, I decide to study the map on wooden background (a nifty addition that all nature parks in Croatia have) in order to find out if there is anything within the time frame I have been provided to see. While Draski Waterfalls are not far and reachable even for my schedule, it is June by now, and thus the waterfalls be a rather underwhelming experience due to the lack of water. I decide to venture on, exploring the trail that was planned for today and get lost in the thicket of Učka's forest. Sadly, soon after, I have to turn around to make it back to the last bus for the day - with a whispered promise that I shall return and climb Vojak sometime soon.

THE AFTERBATH

The beautiful thing about mastering steep trails in the beginning? You get to walk down, down, down when your legs feel heavy and the back is hurting from all the climbing done. Getting back to the shore of Medveja is easy enough, and the lovely staff at the campsite reassures me that the bus will come through and stop here.

This leaves me with a mere 40 minutes of idleness. Looking at the azure blue waves swapping against the empty shore, I decide an after hike swim is just what the doctor's ordered and dive into the deep blue waters that the oasis of the goddess has bestowed me with.

Will I be back for more? Absolutely! Učka has many trails to offer, whether you are after the Waterfalls, the fortress Trebescenica or simply want to reach the peak Vojak - Učka offers many days of exploration, and begs to come back for more. An oasis that offers both rock formations, pastures and the sea, this nature park will have you come back over and over again

HOW TO GET TO UČKA

By Car:

Coming from Rijeka or Zagreb, continue along the expressway in the direction of Učka Tunnel (Pula, Poreč etc.) and take the exit Veprinac. From there continue along the regional road that leads to the Park.

Coming from Istria, turn right before the entrance to Učka Tunnel, next to the INA petrol station, and follow the signs that will bring you to the old regional road and to the center of the Park

By Bus:

On Sundays and holidays the Učka Nature Park, or more precisely the Poklon mountain-pass, can be reached from Opatija (Slatina bus stop) by the local Autotrolej bus line no.34. The journey takes cca. one hour.

Opatija departure – 09:40 ; 17:15
Poklon return – 10:30 ; 18:00

If coming to Kvarner by bus, Rijeka Bus Station is well-connected with most major Croatian and European towns. The journey from Rijeka to Opatija takes ca. 45 minutes by the local Autotrolej bus line no. 32. Here you can find its timetable.

TRAILS IN UCKA

Učka offers an abundance of hiking and educational trails - the one I took only being one of them. You can find all hikes and their difficulty on the official webpage of Učka Nature Park.

AT A GLANCE

HIKE INFORMATION

Route: Medveja - Lovranska Draga - Medveja

Starting point: Medveja town centre
End point: Medveja shore

Duration: Approx. 2 - 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Medium (expect rather steep ascends)

What to pack: Hiking boots/shoes with good profile, hiking sticks, picnic/snacks, water, sunscreen, weatherproof clothing

Getting there by bus:

On Sundays and holidays Poklon mountain-pass can be reached from Opatija (Slatina bus stop) by the local Autotrolej bus line no. 34. The journey takes approx. 1 hour.

Opatija departure – 09:40 ; 17:15
Poklon return – 10:30 ; 18:00

If coming to Kvarner by bus, Rijeka Bus Station is well-connected with most major Croatian towns. The journey from Rijeka to Opatija takes ca. 45 minutes by the local Autotrolej bus line no. 32. Here you can find its timetable.