Two Peak in One Day: Guslica & Snježnik

IN SHORT

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THIS HIKE

• Views for days: See Veliki Risnjak, Snježnik, Jelenc peaks

• Spot Kvarner bay from the top of Guslica!

• The diverse areas: forests, fields and rock formations

• Incredible flora: From wild garlic over to fairytale-like gnarly trees, mountain beech and blossoming aremonias

• Spectacular picnic spot atop Snježnik

• former mountain lodge 'Snježnik'

It's a sunny and reasonably warm spring day as our little group gathers for today's hike at the parking area in Platak. The drive up here consisted of a narrow serpentine road that has every driver approach carefully and in the hope that there won't anyone crossing their way. After the first little challenge, the outlook from Platak – located on the western slope of Risnjak National Park – is stunning, and we can't wait to set out for not only one but two peaks today: Guslica and Snježnik.

Hiking sticks packed, boots fastened and backpacks at the ready, we set out, following the main street down and then crossing into the forest. To be fair, the trail isn't necessarily encouraging at first, with a lot of mud areas and fallen tree bits. Luckily, we aren't disheartened easily and so, after a slight incline and a muddier shoes than before, we quickly make our 15 minutes trek uphill and are quickly led into a stunning lush oasis with the trees at the cusp of blossoming and the birds announcing the world's awakening from hibernation.

We follow this beautiful and well-marked trail for a good 25 minutes, before one of us saying "here" has us looking up at a steep hill. It's a short but rather harsh climb, and luckily there is a stump with several moss beds along the way to help ease the burning of the calves that makes this first heavy incline hard to tackle.

The smell of blooming wild garlic and the fragrant plants dotting the forest all around us is another pick-me-up that has us battling against the elevation until ... we are surrounded once again by tall trees, a flat trail and the spring sun leading the way. The forest soon gives way to grassy fields, the yellow-greenish stalks that are populating the rolling hills oddly reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.

With our furry companions running ahead, our first peak, Guslica, is coming into view, towering mightily over the area and the crater to our left. The pinhead-sized hikers currently climbing the peak are a testament to how tall this mountain stands, with its 1'045 meters above sea level.

After the strenuous first climb, the remaining distance up to Guslica – which housed a top secret military base back in Yugoslavia that can still be seen – over rocky bits and pieces and small cracks feels almost easy – but maybe that's just because of the breathtaking view that slowly reveals itself as we ascend.

A bit further up, past a few last snow reservoirs that rest in the ever-shadowy bits of the mountain, and another craggy short climb up to the mountain lodge, and we made it. Our first peak is reached – and what a view it provides! From here, we can see the peaks Veliki Risnjak, Snježnik, Jelenc, Fratar and even Ucka along with the Kvarner bay! Unreal!

Sadly, this gorgeous structure was closed in 2003 and left to decay. What an absolute shame! The view from up here is unlike anything I have seen on all my hikes. It's windy but otherwise calm up here, and I feel as though the maze of mountainous peaks that unfurls before our eyes is endless, the green dots almost like islands, jutting out from the haze that settles at their midriff.

What an amazing spot for a picnic. And feast we do, with our fantastic view, before we start our descend. Initially, our goal is to climb over the peak and then follow a steep "Rimska Vrata" trail down, but not all of us feel confident that they are gonna make it. Is this a good moment to remind you that it is completely okay to change your plan and not stick to your route if you feel unsafe at any point? Our crew decides to stay on this side of the ridge and to go down through "Grlo", ending up at the mountain lodge Mali Platak, where our adventure ends.

Wow. What an extraordinary hike! Every time I come back to Risnjak National Park, I am blown away by it once more. Have you checked it out yet?

With all the surrounding peaks (Veliki Risnjak and Snježnik) as well as the striking beauty of this National Park, we could turn around now and still have tons to write home about. But: We want to push on, the hardest part lies behind us already!

After a quick break and a snack, we set out for our next peak: Snježnik. This roughly 1 hour long trel along the mountain ridge is pure joy: the grassy fields, the rock formations, the views of the multitudinous peaks and edges simply breathtaking.

Our trail still has us go up smaller hills and down into what almost feels like a crater that is filled with snow and ice. As we pass it, our trail makes a sharp right and then leads over a rather muddy and mushy field. It is here that we realize ... Our steepest bit is yet to come. Oh noes!

Not in the form of a short but steep bit, but as a lengthy trail that continuously gains altitude. Morale isn't as high as it was at the beginning, but by now, everyone has set their mind to having a picnic on the top, and so we grin and bear the last meters in altitude, climbing up and past several rock formations until ... we arrive at the iconic mountain lodge Snježnik.

HIKE INFORMATION

Route: Parking area Platak - Guslica - Snježnik - Grlo - Mali Dom Platak

What to pack: Water, weatherproof clothing, hiking boots with excellent profile/grip, hiking sticks, picnic, snacks, sun screen, extra jacket for warmth on top

Starting point: Parking area Platak
Ending point: Mali Dom Platak

Getting there by bus: Bus line 12b (only on Saturday and Sunday from Rijeka). Find the schedule here.