THE WILD WILD WEST: SMITH ROCK, OREGON

Oh, Oregon. How could we not love the wilderness of the Northwestern State? Most of us only got an impression of what the state has got to offer through Winnetou movies. But there is more to find than vast lands and tumbleweed. Otherworldly rock formations, gorgeous flora and abrupt abysses come to mind when thinking back of our Christmas adventure. We got to explore the Smith Rock State Park, located in Central Oregon's High Desert.

The sheer cliffs of tuff and basalt make Smith Rock a paradise for climbers of all levels. No wonder we encounter a handful of people hanging from the rocks towering over our heads. But not only rock climbers get their money's worth: Smith Rock offers many miles of trails for hiking, horse riding and mountain biking, too. The two main trails "Summit Trail" and "Misery Ridge Loop" but also easy loops like the "River Trail" and "Canyon Trail" hold picturesque vistas, overlooking the Crooked River and rock formations in the area. The volcanic State Park is made up of layers of recent basalt flows over Clarno ash and tuff formations.

It is estimated that the a large caldera - formed 30 million years ago - collapsed into an underground lava chamber, creating a rock and ash debris which filled the caldera. Half a million years ago, basalt lava found its way into Smith Rock and buried the older tuff under its mass. It was only more recently, when the Crooked River cleaved through the layers of rock, completing the magical view we see today.

EXPLORING THE CALDERA

We decide to take a leisurely walk through the magnificent park, to get the lay of the land. The Canyon Trail is the perfect path for what we have in mind. Due to the Caldera we are about to enter, our hike for once starts with going down and not up. As Smith Rock is home to abundant wildlife such as Mule deer, Beavers, Otters golden eagles and even rattlesnakes as well as sensitive soil and vegetation, hikers are asked to stay on the established trails.

Our Trail is leading us down the the riverfront of Crooked River. It is love upon first sight: The Picnic Lunch Wall, the Crooked River meandering underneath... We are speechless - only 10 minutes in! Though the Misery Ridge Trail starts off on the other side of the bridge that we come upon, we decide to take a left turn - away from the crowd - and keep on following the Canyon Trail. This quiet and lonesome path passes by the Rope-de-Dope rock as well as beautiful wilderness by the river. You can even cross the river to meet the River Trail through the horse ford by the Phoenix Buttress.

Follow the Trail and you will be led by the Christian Brothers, Dihedrals as well as the Morning Glory Wall - all of which will probably be full of rock climbers daring to face the challenge Smith Rock offers. If you are feeling ambitious, follow the River Trail, which will bring you back to the Picnic Lunch Wall and then morph into the Misery Ridge Trail. This trek however is going to be anything but leisurely. It is one of the most difficult trails in the area, so brace yourself and only enter the adventure if you are feeling like you are physically able to do so. If you want to keep it simple and easy, simply cross the footbridge after the Picnic Lunch Wall and walk back up the Chute, which will bring you back to where you started.

Smith Rock State Park offers a vast assortment of hiking trails and you can find all of them - easiest to hardest - on their homepage including maps for exact directions.

NOW FOR THE CLIMBING ASPECT

What made the State Reserve utterly popular and remunerated was their rock formations that are just too perfect not to climb. Especially in the 1980's, Smith Rock was a sought-after climbing spot for professionals and amateurs alike. Dubbed as the Birthplace of U.S. Sport Climbing, up to this day, the rocks in Oregon remain a popular climbing spot. If you are passionate about climbing, please be aware that the routes such as 'Just do it' should only be faced if you are an experienced climber that has appropriate gear and experience. Too many lives have been lost on the caldera founded grounds of Smith Rock - despite them being professionals.

If you want to take it easy and get the feel for the rocks, maybe start out with 'Rope-de-Dope', close to the Bivouac area. Yes, Bivouac area. You can stay overnight in the State Park; just know that the rule is 'first come, first serve'. The climbing spots of the West Side Crags, sitting right behind the Christian Brothers, offer short, nonetheless fun climbs for less experienced climbers. Stay safe, know your limits and happy climbing!

HIKE INFORMATION

Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Duration: Approximately 2-3 hours
Starting Point: Smith Rock Parking Lot
Ending Point: Smith Rock Parking Lot
Route (Walking Loop): Smith Rock Parking Lot - Rim Rock Trail - The Chute - Canyon Trail - Rope-de-Dope - Canyon Trail - Horse ford crossing - River Trail - Phoenix Buttress - Christian Brothers - Dihedrals - Morning Glory Wall - Footbridge Crossing by Picnic Lunch Wall - The Chute - Rim Rock Trail - Smith Rock Parking Lot

Gear: Hiking boots or shoes with a good profile, water bottle, HydroFlask

As always, make sure to inform yourself about the trails you intend on hiking before setting out and only go on trails that you know are within your physical capacity.

Bear in mind that keeping up such a massive and wild state park is anything but cheap. The daily parking fee for a vehicle of USD 5.00 (at the time of writing), helps the park to maintain trails and give wildlife an accurate and species-appropriate home.