OKIĆ CASTLE & ŽUMBERAK

Spring has sprung in Zagreb, and with the first warm breeze filtering through the air and the birds chirps waking me up in the early morning, it is finally time for some more exploring outside the city's boundaries. Okić makes for the perfect half day trip to get lost in the woods, marvel at the cute little wooden cottages of the surrounding villages and last but not least to explore an old castle ruin! Ready for an extraordinary adventure in Žumberak nature park? Off we go!

THE HIKE BEFORE THE HIKE

Right, so ... Remember when I said I that I like to just randomly zoom in on a map and find a green area that might be of interest in order to find my adventures? This was sort of one of these experiences. I knew of the castle ruins awaiting in Okić, but I found that a mere 20 minute walk to the remnants of the fort didn't quite cut it for me. I wanted something a bit more challenging. There are several trails leading to Okić castle, ranging from 1 to 5 hours worth of hiking (see below for all options).

Since I started my hike a bit later than I usually would – around 1 pm – I decided for the golden mean and park in a tiny little village called Sveti Martin pod Okićem. Was there any particular reason to park there, you ask? Absolutely not. It just seemed like a good starting point in terms of distance for that day.

Sveti Martin pod Okićem is a tiny little place with cute little family houses and a church whose tower is reminiscent of a lighthouse, which also builds the starting point. Following the main street for a mere 20 minutes, I turn left onto the forest path that will guide me up, up, up to Podgrađe Podokićko, an even smaller village than the one I left behind just about half an hour ago. The first few turns are on the steeper side of things, but nothing I couldn't manage, especially when being surrounded by the awakening of Spring. Liverwort and snowdrops glistening in the sun, the birds chirping their song and a fresh breeze accompany me as I gain elevation.

Before we start: A bit about Žumberak

Upon entering Podgrade, a sign informs me that I am now entering Žumberak nature park. Žumberak is a huge forested area that builds the home of many birds, wildlife and not to forget a gazillion of beautiful flowers and plants. Yes, you can hike in all of Žumberak, and yes, it offers more than just one day of exploring! Today, I am just covering a minuscule area of the unforgiving terrain that is Žumberak and Samobor mountains.

While the conditions make it hard to live up here for humans and thus it is not a densely populated area, wildlife (such as bears, wolves and bats) and flora flourish and build a beautiful mosaic of pristine forests, pastures, stunning rock formations and archaeologically important sites – one of them being Okić Castle.

My trail leads me through the charming little village Podgrade and the hills up ahead have me so fascinated that I actually overlook the trail marker and go on directly towards the hills upon which one of them Okić towers and watches over the lands beneath its walls. Luckily, the trail reaches a dead end pretty soon after my wrong turn (or non-turn?), so only a mere 10 minutes are added to my hiking clock. Finding the trail beneath two buildings – a tiny street that leads back into the forest – I follow the slightly rising hill before me and gain more elevation as I walk along the forested hill.

It is here that I see parked cars from other fellow hikers and realize that people usually don't bother starting further down like I did, but I regret no part of my journey so far. Here is the second starting point of my hike, for now I enter the forest and follow its mossy trail that eventually merges with the education trail of Okić area that brings interesting historical but also environmental facts about the nature park to passerby.

This is a pretty easy but absolutely scenic hiking trail!, I think to myself, just before I arrive at a steep drop in the trail which leads me to the stream that flows through the forest. Checking the signs at the crossing of water and earth, I notice a semi-shortcut leading to Okic, along the steep cliffs that arise from the forest into the sky. Knowing what I know about Croatia and some of its hiking trails by now, I am sure that this will include some sort of rock climbing or clambering, which I do not feel comfortable doing. At least not when the climb is that steep.

So, instead, I decide to follow the educational path all the way up to the Planinarski Dom Dr Maks Plotnikov (the mountain lodge) and after a last steep bit that is riddled with dry leaves, making the trail a bit slippery, a green pasture comes into view, on which sits the cute little wooden cottage where coffee, refreshments and lunch are being served. Before sitting down and getting too comfortable, I decide to tackle the last part of this journey in order to get to my final destination for the day: Okic Castle.

From down here it looks eerily steep and the sign saying 'difficult trail' isn't particularly encouraging. Luckily there is an easy path up on the other hand side of the pasture, which I decide to relent to today. What looks like a long, exhausting climb nonetheless, turns out to be a reasonably easy 15 minutes hike (and a little bit of clambering over rocks) to the top. The first stop comes after a mere 5 minutes of following the trail: It's the arch of the former castle that welcomes you in its midst.

As I gain elevation and the paths get narrower and wilder, more and more rocks begin to protrude from the ground that make for an ideal handle to steady myself on if my fear of heights gets the better of me. Looking up to the massive castle walls towering over me, I shuffle along the cliff and follow the path around the corner, behind which emerges what is left from the former Ottoman castle. Before I climb a little further up in order to look at the main part of the ruins, I enter the side chamber which offers a spectacular, picture perfect view of Zagreb in the distance, surrounded by the rounded arch.

Only a few more steps and I arrive at the top of what I had first thought would probably not be possible for me today. I marvel at the forest, the pastures and the city of Zagreb in the distance and take in the structure that has withstood a good chunk of history.

Full of happy endorphins I almost skip down the hill (okay, actually not, because there are still rocks protruding from the ground), and get myself a much deserved coffee and Strudl sa sirom (Cheese Strudel), before I make my way back to my starting point using the opposite slope to complete my circular hiking route. It is a beautiful trail that passes over the stream, through picturesque villages and along vineyards of Zumberak and Samobor region. Looking at the pretty little cottage, it is easy to understand why people would exchange the comfort of the city for this.

3 hours after starting my ascent, I find my way back via the hill of Sveti Martin, back to where I started. What a day!

HIKE INFORMATION

Starting Point: Sveti Martin pod Okićem
End Point: Sveti Martin pod Okićem

Waypoints: Sveti Martin pod Okićem - Podokićko - Planinarski Dom Dr Maks Plotnikov - Okic Castle - Klake - Sveti Martin pod Okićem