DOVER: FROM THE CITY TO THE CLIFFS

Here comes a well-known place to travel to, spiced up with a lesser known gem of England's Coast: The White Cliffs of Dover and St. Margaret's Bay. To escape the crowds, I visited this jewel in late December – and did not encounter a single soul exploring the lands by the bay.

THE CITY

The Southeastern let me off at Dover Train Station on this grey and cold day. Equipped with leg warmers, winter hiking boots, gloves and – because it is England, after all – a raincoat, I set out for what looms at the end of Victoria Park Street: The Castle of Dover. Starting off with the oldest castle in England, also called the "Key to England" – due to its defensive significance in history – promises a wonderful day of exploration. History-interested travelers will definitely want to make a stop here. Not only the castle invites begs me to take a step closer; the Constable's Tower, Dubris Pharos Lighthouse and the secret Wartime tunnels catch my eye, too.

TO THE CLIFFS

As I set out for the wilderness part of my adventure, I decide to take a right down to the pier and encounter almost eerily empty fair grounds. This, however, only makes my adventure a tad more thrilling and I go on to find what every other guide book about England is talking about: The White Cliffs of Dover.

Having emerged about 70 million years ago, the White Cliffs of Dover nowadays have a symbolic value in Great Britain. This is, because they are facing Continental Europe and were an ever-occurring threat to invaders from the mainland throughout history. Especially during the time of evacuation from Dunkirk, many soldiers and allied troops gasped in relief upon seeing the cliffs looming afield.

The temperatures by the sea are fierce – especially considering the cold winds blowing in from the open sea. Nonetheless, I enjoy the fresh sea breeze and remind myself that we are experiencing a rather mild winter. And proof for that I get, as we leave the concrete pier and set foot into the wild. The first boot already almost got stuck in the deep mud due to rainfall the day before.

But I knew that it was a little crazy to set out for this journey in these weather conditions and so I get the boot back from Mother Nature and gorge myself on the absolutely beautiful view I get. Just when I doubt that this was a good idea, sunlight emerges from the grey clouds afar and creates a spectacular photo moment. From here on out, the adventure only gets more excellent with every step.

As the path gets less muddy and my steps more confident, I spy a group of horses grazing in the evergreen field of Dover. Not a single soul is in sight and I enjoy the calmness and quietness of this place that gets overrun in summer. Climbing the small hills up and down, making my way towards the South Foreland Lighthouse, I take in the refreshing sea breeze and the marvelous vista from a 110 meters above the sea. The closer I get to the Lighthouse – which also has an indoor refreshment option – the better the trail consistency gets and I am able to increase my hiking speed.

It is at the Lighthouse, when I encounter some other hikers that have dared to come out on such a cold and breezy day. "This is the farthest we will go today," says one of the elderly ladies with her Basset Hound nestled between her feet. I, however, finish my hot drink and set out for my next stop: St. Margaret's Bay.

St Margaret's at Cliffe is home to the bay that is part of the White Cliffs of Dover. During the Second World War, most of the population of the three-part village were moved out and in return, guns along with the military moved in. Some of the heavier guns that were positioned 1 kilometer from the sea should prevent German shipping from travelling along The French Coast. The military even named their guns that were brought from the battleship HMS King George V: Jane, Clem, Winnie and Pooh. Today, St. Margaret's at Cliffe is a small, non-threatening village with lots of green fields and stunning views. It is located right by the Cliffs, where I decide to have a lunch break. There could not be a better place to sit down and enjoy this deserted, calm place, keeping in mind that once upon a time, the exact spot I sit at was a witness of major historical events.

In order to get away from the nice – nonetheless persistent – sea breeze, I decide to follow the Upper Road, back to where I started, completing my loop after 3 hours of marveling and fighting against the mud – which was an absolute refreshing and authentic experience. On my way back, I encounter the horses that had welcomed me to the Cliffs earlier and say our goodbyes – until the next time!

HIKE INFORMATION

Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Duration: 2-3 Hours
Starting Point: Dover Train Station
Ending Point: Dover Train Station

Route: Dover Train Station - Dover Castle - Pier - White Cliffs - South Foreland Lighthouse -St. Margaret's Bay - Dover Train Station via Upper Road

Gear: Hiking Boots or Boots with a very good profile, Water, Lunch, Raincoat