CROATIA’S CONCEALED JEWEL: PAPUK NATIONAL PARK

Croatia: Land of unearthly beauty and as biodiverse as it gets. Inhabiting 8 stunning national parks, Croatia is one of the most popular destinations in Europe not only for lovers of the sea, but also for hikers and nature lovers.

When thinking about visiting Croatia for some time out and about, the popular National Parks of Plitvice, Mljet and Krk usually come to mind and lead on the search results online. The issue about their illustriousness is often manifested by long lines and walking with a crowd. However, when trying to get in touch with Mother Nature and escape the hustle and bustle of city life, we seek to enjoy the quiet and lonesome places without missing out on spotting some nice corners.

In the Eastern part of Croatia, a National Park offers the wilderness experience far away from crowds and queues that every adventurer is looking for. We followed the trail of the Pannonian Sea and discovered a virgin forest, gorgeous and deserted, we barely believed it to be real

MEET THE LEAST KNOWN NATIONAL PARK IN CROATIA: PAPUK

Papuk National Park - located in the region of Slavonia - inhabits over 33’600 hectares of breathtaking beauty and can easily compete with its brothers and sisters along the coast or western inland.

Right on the foot of the most marvelous mountain of Slavonia - Mount Papuk - lies the former bottom of the Pannonian Sea and tells the tale of Earth’s appearance 16 million years ago. The two mountains rising over the lowlands and cultivated areas beneath, Papuk and Krndija, are part of the Slavonian mountain chain and measure up to 1000 meters above sea level. Looking at the rather flat landscape of Eastern Croatia, Papuk and Krndija protrude as special jewels

More than the height sets them apart from the common landscape of Slavonia: The rocky surfaces are covered with well preserved, virgin forest. Especially the parts inhabiting the space where the Pannonian Sea once spread and reigned over Croatia, Hungary as well as Austria, the forests have kept their pristine appearance. Even their mountain tops are home to many virgin beech forests. These combined features have made many parts of Papuk earn a spot on the list of UNESCO’s world heritage sites.

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN: THE PANNONIAN SEA

The world about 10 million years ago: The Pannonian Sea stretches over what people later shall call Europe. The water masses cover Hungary, Austria and Croatia. Only the Carpathian Mountains have some air left to breathe, the latter also building the only border between Pannonia and its even bigger brother the Paratethys Sea. Various water bodies are around: The Mediterranean Sea is connected to Pannonia through what we nowadays call the Ligurian Sea, Bavaria and the Vienna Basin. Microorganisms get to travel all the way to the Aegan Sea through the Presevo Valley.

Throughout its 9 million year long lifespan, Pannonia sees many and sudden transformations. As change takes its toll, the Pannonian Sea loses more and more salinity. This creates an endemic fauna around its basin. As Earth continues to adapt its shape, the Pannonian Sea loses its connection to its brother in the East (Paratethys). It eventually becomes the Pannonian Lake until its last remnant, the Slavonian Lake, dries up in the Pleistocene epoch and vanishes from the world maps - never to be seen again.

Pannonia, however, continues to live on - in the form of mountains that have been shaped by the sea during its reign: Mecsek, Papuk, Psunji, Krndija, Dilji, Fruska Gora as well as the Vrsac Mountains crown high up over the landscape beneath.

The remains of the incredible shifts Mother Earth introduced to the Eastern European mainland are now visible to the beholders' eye from several viewpoints. One can see how enormous of an area Pannonia once covered and is even able to spy upon Hungary's east western villages such as Harkany and Villany.

One truly gets an impression of how much power the now extinct sea must have had. More so, the sea left its marks deeper down in the valleys spreading around Papuk: In the rocks surrounding the area – which today is a protected landmark due to its geological diversity and climatic impacts. Up to this day, fossils can still be found in the surrounding area and keep the memory of Pannonia alive.

GEMS TO BE EXPLORED

Today, a park so green and rich reigns, where sea waters used to flow. Numerous areas within the park have been awarded a higher protection status in 1999, due to their unusual and unique features as well as their geological, biological, cultural and historical significance.

Today, I am accompanied by my Mom, as we set out to explore the oasis of peace and pristine forests and discover a jewel hikers and nature lovers need to know about.

Geological Monument Rupnica

Being part of UNESCO’s world heritage, this geopark is bound to give you the chills. Rupnica is the most important geological site in Papuk, which has been declared so in the year of 1948 year already. Due to its unique, geological features from volcanic mass, a natural mosaic of rocks has accumulated into giant stone pillars and fascinates visitors of this unusual sight.

Forest Park Jankovac – Skakavac Waterfalls

The northern slope of Papuk is home to the ecological Nature Park 'Jankovac'. It is not only one of the most stunning mountain valleys in the area, it also is surrounded by several centuries old beech forests. Full of educational trails, mountain streams, ponds and not to forget the magnificent waterfall Skakavac with its arms stretching over three levels, Jankovac is the highlight of the central area of Papuk.

The 3-4 hour long loop we went on offers a glimpse into the well-preserved region of Papuk. The trail starts along a pond with its own underwater forest. A beautiful nature phenomenon. We continue on the wooden path and pass moss beds and streams, before a steep, wooden staircase emerges in front of us. The climb through centuries old beeches is rewarded by a gorgeous view and a bat cave that waits to be explored.

As we continue our trek uphill, we encounter a badger's burrow, before we emerge from the tree covered area. Massive - and we mean massive - trees welcome us back to the thick forest about 20 minutes later. As we continue on the now leave-flodded path, a quite unusual sight appears: A Cemetery in the midst of the forest. Upon further reading, we learn that the 4 graves must have been here for over 100 years - why the people have been buried here, however, remains a secret.

We leave the slightly eerily part of our hike and the trail starts losing height. What we just climbed, we walk down again on the other side of the hill, through a maze of several trails. On a crossway, we choose to follow the trail leading downhill and to the left. The right choice, as we learn shortly afterwards. We found what we came for: Skakavac Waterfalls.

We marvel at the three levels of Papuk's waterfall standing on the wooden bridge in front of it. The moss beds, rock formations and the water falling from the edge of the rock make us gasp in awe. As we turn around, we spy upon the two other levels further down. The waterfall spreads quite wide and falls into the Kovacica stream below.

We eventually make our way back to where we started, completing the loop. Yellow and red colored rocks appear just around the corner from Skakavac Waterfalls. Another feat of Mother Nature. The colored rocks reach high into the sky, leading us back to the information center of the area and our ending point.