Castles & Kayaks: A Day Trip to Ozalj

IN SHORT

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THIS TRIP

• Beautiful view from a 12th century castle over the Kupa river

• A lovely beach bar on the peninsula underneath the fortress

• Kayak and SUP rentals by the river

• hidden bathing spots down the Kupa river

• Historical stronghold and museum

It is a sunny and warm summer day in August when I set out for this gem of a town. How it all came to be? Once again, I was spinning the wheel of fortune, aka I zoomed in on my map app and found this lovely town that is located roughly 30 minutes away from Karlovac, which makes it an ideal day trip from Zagreb if you have a car or a lovely weekend adventure with a sleepover in Karlovac (or Ozalj) if you're going by public transport.

I start my journey with a walk from the town center to the castle of Ozalj, majestically perched above a stone cliff over the Kupa river. Once an extraordinarily robust stronghold, the fortress was converted into a castle and now beckons visitors with its yellow entrance tower gate to cross the stone bridge and to explore the courtyard that spreads behind these doors.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle - like many of its peers - fell into the hands of many an influential family throughout its history, such as the noble families Zrinski and Frankopan, who would make the fortress a well-known site in the years to come, as it built the stage for the Magnate conspiracy.

Despite its rather dismal past, castle Ozalj is a true gem, sitting on the cliff's ledge and offering a stunning view over the Kupa river from its sentry wall. Due to its many owners, Ozalj boasts a mix of architectural styles, and there are even remains of a wall that dates back all the way to Roman times! A truly beautiful patchwork of epochs that nowhouses a library and a museum about origins of Ozalj. Make sure to stop by and learn about the history of this place (and to get a postcard from the area as souvenir!).

About 40 minutes down the river, a gravel bank offers the perfect picnic and bathing spot, away from the crowds and in the midst of nature. Pure bliss!

What paddles down, must paddle back up. And so, after a little break in the late afternoon sun, I make my way back at a leisurely pace to the rental spot, where I am being told that usually, they rent their kayaks out upstream, but due to the current reconstruction of the bridge, they had to move right underneath it.

Their kayaks are in splendid shape and the rental cost of EUR 10 for 2 hours (or EUR 15.00 for the whole day) for a one-seater decent. Make sure to pay them a visit upstream and explore Ozalj from a different point of view!

After a well-deserved drink and a snack, I make my way back to my car, ending this most excellent adventure!

The Magnate conspiracy in short:

Also known as the Zrinski-Frankopan Conspiracy, this secret plot aimed to oust the Habsburg Monarchy from Croatia and Hungary after the 'Peace of Vasvár' was concluded, a treaty which ended the Austro-Turkish War in 1664. Subsequently, Croatian and Hungarian nobles put their heads together in secret, and had the intention of reopening hostilities with the Ottoman Empire after they broke away from Habsburg rule. The conspiracy was exposed and some culprits executed, while others fled.

The view from up here inspires me to continue my exploration - more precisely, down towards the water to check if i can somehow explore this beautiful place from a somewhat different angle. A short walk down from the castle along the the pedestrian walk that meanders along the Kupa river, I arrive at the bathing spot "Slave Raškaj", a pretty patch of riverbank with comfortable seating made from pallets along with a bar and grill that serves food and drinks on this summer day.

It is no wonder that this spot has been named after the greatest watercolorist of the 19th and 20th century, Slava Raškaj. The place is truly serene and captures nature's beauty at its finest.

A stone's throw away from the bar underneath the leaf trees that are in full blossom awaits a SUP and Kayak rental. Jackpot! River Colapis set me up with a kayak and off I go, down the river, to explore cute little cottages, cabins and camps along the Kupa, passing by serene little spots to take a break and soak up the sun.

PLAN YOUR TRIP!

How to get to Ozalj by public transport: If you do not possess a car, have no fear! Against common belief, it is possible to visit towns like Ozalj by public transport.

Take a train from Zagreb Glavni Kolodvor to Karlovac and change to the train to Ozalj. The total trip will take you around 1 hour and 45 minutes (if not interruptions occur). Make sure to check which train you're taking, as some of them take up to 4(!) hours. Alternatively, take a bus to Karlovac (takes you 55 minutes) and hop on one of the two daily trains (36 minutes travel time).

If you are worried that you won't make it back in time, why not sleep over in Karlovac?

How to get to Ozalj by car: Simply take the E65 to Karlovac, take the 3rd exit and then follow signs to Ozalj. It should take you about an 1 hour and 10 minutes.

WHAT TO SEE IN OZALJ:

• Castle Ozalj

• Museum Ozalj

• Bathing spot 'Slave Raskaj'

• Kayak or SUP adventure on Kupa

• View point Svati Krize