A Hike near Zagreb for Car(e)free Saturday Fun: Lipa Rog

IN SHORT

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THIS HIKE

• 360 degree view from the observation tower

• winding trail along a stream

• easy access to public transport with relatively frequent service

• Chapel "Hrvatskih Mučenika"

• Chapel "Marije Snježne"

• "Velika Pec" cave in vicinity to the peaks if you fancy a small cave

• 3-4 hours of countryside fun with lots to see

• mountain lodge that serves beverages, food and offers beds (weekends)

• Elevation: 440 m (sudden and steep uphill climb to the peak)

Although the bristling cold temperatures that have by now also reached Zagreb may not directly make one want to set out for a day outdoors, if you are anything like me, a simple ray of sunshine falling through your window on a Saturday morning will have you want to get out of the city and climb up a hill, mountain or gain elevation in other ways.

I came across this particular trail as I was waiting for my Saturday buns to be done. I knew I wanted to get in touch with nature but also that I wouldn't go far since the sun is still setting rather early and being out there in the wild in subzero temperatures can become rather dangerous very quickly.

And so, a trail near Zagreb it should be. By now, I've got a few locations up my sleeve that are both close to Zagreb and reachable by public transport, but sometimes you just get that itch to explore something new.

Zooming in and out of my map, I eventually stumbled over a peak called 'Rog', which translates to 'horn' or 'antler'. It sounded good enough to me! Zooming in a little closer, I noticed that there are not one but two peaks sharing the name that are in close proximity to each other. Two peaks in one day? sign me up!

With a little over 740 meters above sea level, of which hikers that set out for that trail will gain roughly 400 during their trek, this is the ideal Saturday or Sunday (or whenever your hiking day is) trail in the vicinity of Zagreb. You'll get to see a charming tiny village, walk through a marvelous forest that is absolutely magical (even in winter) and get to be humbled by nature and how small you are in comparison, before getting an awesome view from the view point near the mountain hut "Lipa-Rog", where some hot Grah and Kobasica (beans and sausage) will warm you up before continuing.

OFF WE GO!

With the buns turned into sandwiches and some hot tea packed in a thermos, the Saturday adventure can begin. I am still not a hundred percent sure which trail to go for as I enter the tram that will take me to Dubrava station, where most of the buses that go towards Medvenica nature park slopes depart from.

By the time I get to the bus stop, I made up my mind: I want to explore something new today! Off I go, getting into bus number 206 that will get me to Čučerje, a tiny village about 30 minutes away from Dubrava. The ride is bumpy in a way that makes my head spin, but as the apartment blocks give way to tiny houses dotting the street before fading out into grassy fields, I can't be bothered to be in a bad mood because of a few potholes.

From the first peak it's a mere 20-25 minutes walk past another pretty chapel to the observation tower (known as the pyramid) - which, to be honest, is a bit creaky but reasonably sturdy - and to the adjacent mountain lodge. From the observation tower, you have a 360° view of the forest area as well as Zagreb in the southwest.

About 30 minutes later, I am being let off at an inconspicuous place that, frankly, does not even look like a bus stop - totally what I was looking for! There are no passengers aboard, and just as many souls in the tiny village that I start my trek in.

Straight ahead stands a beautiful old farm house that immediately catches my eye and leads me to the hiking trail.

Both trails, 29 and 53, lead up to Rog-Lipa, and while I initially intended to follow trail 53, I somehow missed a turn and instead went up, up, up the very steep hill of the village and through a few vineyards (the official trails leads through them), before I recognize the errors of my ways.

No matter, I think, and simply decide to follow trail 29 through an almost eerily empty forest. Because nature is hibernating - making me wonder if it's rude of me to intrude - I am not even accompanied by the chirping of birds, as I gain more and more elevation while walking through a dyke-like pit.

Up, up, up I go, and while there are no trees in their best frock right now, I am spellbound by the beautiful patterns that the ice floes that have developed on the smaller pits in this cold. They lead the way and mirror the blue skies above my head, as I walk along the slope leading along "Stari Kip" towards the chapel "Marije Snježne", a beautiful tiny structure with a Croatian emblem atop the tiny opening.

This is were the hard part of the trek starts. I am being led along a beautiful stream full of ornate icicles, up and down and along the bend. This is easily my favorite part of the trek, the mighty slopes raising to both my left and right side, reminding me of how tiny and fragile we humans are.

The last bit of the trek comes in form of a very steep ascend up to the first "Rog". The melange of ice and frozen earth crunches underneath my boots, making me wince once more because I feel I am disturbing nature's sleep. No turning back now, however, not when I am a steep but short climb away from the top.

If you would like to climb the first Rog, be warned: It is a peak that is forested and therefore does not offer a view, but a simple stone that marks the peak.

If you have an extra 5 minutes, why not climb it? I would, however, highly recommend you to go along the hiking trail and not take the forest trail displayed in most hiking apps and which is also displayed on the signpost.

While it is a prepared trail, it gets incredibly steep at the end, to the point where you need really good footing in order to make it - which is rarely the case when you are being carried by nothing more than a bunch of frozen earth icicles.

Once I've filled my belly with the delicacies served at the mountain lodge, a winding trail through the forest brings me down to Planina Donja, a charming little village with loads of old wooden houses, cottages and some sheep bleaking in the distance.

As I am walking down and I observe the sun, it dawns on me that most people probably have started their trek in Planina Donja or its immediate surroundings, as to hike with the sun, which is now casting its rays onto the western slope.

So, if you are planning to go in winter and want all the sun you can get, maybe try hiking this trail the other way around.

This last bit is quite easy, follows a well-kept trail and leads past pastures with an amazing view over the area and past homesteads and farms to where bus 206 picks me up and gets me back to Dubec.

HIKE INFORMATION

Route: Čučerje - Kapelica Marije Snjezne - Rog (742 m.a.s) - Planinarski Dom "Lipa Rog" - Planina Donja
Duration: Approximately 2.5 - 3 hours

What to pack: Hiking boots or shoes with good profile, weatherproof clothing, water, snacks, hiking sticks

How to get there: Bus 209 from Dubrava bus station to bus stop "Hukmani" (check schedule to make sure there are buses running)
How to get home: Bus 206 from Planina Donja to Dubec (check schedule to make sure there are buses running)